Piazza Duomo
It's a balmy July morning as we make our way through the narrow cobbled streets of Lecce's historic centre. A soft hazy sunlight hits the honey-coloured façades making everything look dreamy. We're accompanied by Laura, who's taking us to our home for the next four days. "It's in a 17th century palazzo", she casually mentions as we turn the corner onto Via Marco Basseo, a ridiculously pretty street lined with shuttered windows, ornate balconies and lampposts. An archway leads to a leafy sun-dappled courtyard and to an unassuming doorway. We turn the key and step inside. I gasp. It's one of the most beautiful apartments I've ever seen. We look at each other and grin. I think we're going to like it here...
Basseo 33
In a matter of hours, we'd been wholeheartedly seduced. After two days, we found ourselves staring in the windows of estate agents, wondering how we could make this our home. It's a stunning city, boasting a trove of exuberant Baroque buildings and picturesque piazzas. Yet it never feels showy - there's a restrained elegance here that's instantly appealing. Like Firenze's cooler sister - they don't call it the Florence of the South for nothing. But in stark contrast to its sibling, you won't find a tourist frenzy here. Even in July, it never felt overwhelmed by its visitors.
Santa Chiara
The pace of life is relaxed and laid-back, an attitude we'd now fully embraced after eight days in Puglia. It's a city that's made for wandering aimlessly but contentedly. Experiencing instead of box-ticking. The Centro Storico is off limits to traffic making it a pleasure to explore on foot. It's compact and easily walkable with narrow cobbled streets and numerous pretty squares to pause, sit and to take it all in.
But there's a vibrancy too, and a warmth to its people. The city bursts into life every evening from 8 - things kick off a little later in this part of the world. Their beautiful attitude to life, to food and to style is instantly alluring. We're already hooked.
And then there's the light... That uniquely Italian light. A soft suffused golden glow which settles over the city as evening falls. It stopped me in my tracks every evening. So much beauty - it's hard to take it all in.
We visited Lecce at the end of a 12-day trip to Puglia and Basilicata - you can read parts 1 and 2 here
CONTENTS:
WHERE WE STAYED: LECCE TRAVEL GUIDE
Basseo 33
Welcome to our 17th century palazzo! A home for lovers of all things Italian: for lovers of art, music and travel. There is such a sense of history within those ancient walls. The décor is a perfect balance of old and new, retaining its character, but with all the modern touches we needed. Huge, bright and airy with large shuttered windows overlooking the lovely cobbled street beyond, its location is idyllic - right in the heart of the historic centre. Overhead, the star-vaulted ceiling remains beautifully intact. Waking up in that space was a privilege: I relished the sounds of the city springing to life and the gentle bustle on the street outside as the morning light filtered softly through the shutters.
A floor-to-ceiling book shelf heaves with fabulous art and travel books about Lecce and Salento, and it didn't escape us that the owners are jazz fans too. The walls are lined with wonderful old photos of the giants of jazz while a huge tuba stands beside the bookcase as an objet d'art. A life-sized Dizzy Gillespie marks the entrance to the kitchen, giving me a jump-scare each morning as I rounded the corner, pre-coffee. We became friends by day four.
Mornings here started slowly; reading and drinking coffee, accompanied by a Bossa Nova beat. Stan Getz, João Gilberto and Antônio Carlos Jobim felt like an appropriate soundtrack. If the city wasn't calling out to be explored, we could've happily just stayed in the apartment all day.
Basseo 33 will always hold a special place in my heart. Staying right in the heart of the old town, it gave us a glimpse into life as a local. From walking out into the leafy courtyard each morning to walking back up our pretty street at the end of every day, it felt like home very quickly.
Basseo 33, 33 Via Marco Basseo
WHAT TO DO
It's 3pm on our first afternoon in Lecce. While M takes a siesta, I take to the now-silent streets with my camera. It's hot but I'm already entranced by this beautiful city so I keep walking. It's compact and easy to navigate, even for someone with a shocking sense of direction like me. The Centro Storico is cocooned within the boundaries of the old city walls and three of the original gates still stand today. These are good landmarks for orientation, and also make a nice walking route.
City Gates
Porta Rudiae
This majestic structure is the oldest of the city's gates and located to the west. Originally dating to the 16th century, it was reconstructed in 1703. The upper level is elaborate and ornate: a statue of Sant'Oronzo, patron saint of Lecce, takes a prominent position, flanked by two other saints.
Porta Napoli
The 16th century Porta Napoli stands to the north of the city, taking its name from an ancient road which lead to Naples. Approaching from within the old town, the façade is plain and stark: on the other side a tree-lined avenue leads to a more elaborate and stately entrance.
Porta San Biagio
Marking the once eastern entrance to the city, this imposing gate was reconstructed in the mid 18th century in the Baroque style; its archway framed by imposing columns & ornate stone carvings.
It's worth visiting all three at night when they are beautifully illuminated, bringing all the minute details to life.
Feast on the drama of the Baroque
Santa Chiara
Our approach to sightseeing in Lecce was a lazy one, mainly due to the searing heat. Our days fell into an easy Italian rhythm of coffee, lunch, aperitivo and dinner with occasional activities slotted in between. But you can't come to Lecce without visiting some of its extraordinary Baroque buildings and churches. Instead of signing up to a guided tour, we opted to go at our own pace with a self-guided app.
A single €11 ticket allows visitors access to all the places on the itinerary: the cathedral (Duomo), the churches of San Matteo and Santa Chiara, the Basilica of Santa Croce, the palace of Antico Seminario, the chapel of San Gregorio and the Museo d’Arte Sacra (MuDAS). And the good news is that you don't have to cover them all in one day: the ticket can be used for up to two weeks from the first visit. An additional €10 covers a visit to the Duomo Bell Tower.
Piazza Duomo
Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta e S.Oronzo, Piazza Duomo
All itineraries lead to Piazza Duomo, an enclosed square at the heart of Lecce's old town. Surrounded on all sides by magnificent buildings and ornate façades, this is the most photographed site in the city, dominated by the cathedral and bell tower. The earliest reference to a cathedral dates back to 1114, though the one we see today is a complete reconstruction from the mid 17th century during the early flourishes of Baroque art. Note the two distinct façades: one rich and lavish which faces visitors on approach to the piazza; the main one restrained and austere.
Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta e S.Oronzo, Piazza Duomo
The self-guide recounts how local construction material played a decisive role in the development of the Baroque: the iconic soft Lecce stone lent itself easily to being worked by a chisel, enabling the modelling of intricate decoration and motifs which are so prevalent in every part of the city.
Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta e S.Oronzo, Piazza Duomo
Seminario
On the right side of the Piazza Duomo stands the Palazzo dell’Antico Seminario. Beyond the entrance is a tranquil inner cloister, lined with trees and plants. At its heart stands a well, lavishly decorated with fruit motifs, angels and putti, surmounted by the figure of St Irene, ancient patron saint of Lecce.
Chapel of San Gregorio
This small chapel inside the Seminario is worth a visit for the fantastic modern interpretations in stone of the Stations of the Cross.
Chiesa Santa Croce
Of all the buildings in Lecce, this is the one that stops visitors in their tracks. As we turned the corner from Piazza Castromediano Sigismondo, my jaw dropped as the extraordinary façade loomed into view, basking in the glow of the late evening sun. The intricacy of detailing is remarkable, the work of some of the most important sculptors and architects of the Renaissance and Lecce Baroque. You'll notice the two distinct styles at play here: the lower order showcases the elegance of the 16th century Renaissance while the upper level explodes with 17th century Baroque exuberance. In between the two, a series of figures and mythological creatures appear burdened by holding up the balcony above, while the rose window is the pièce de résistance. It's utterly fantastic.
Basilica Santa Croce
The app has loads of fascinating information about the decorative scheme, and its allegorical meanings and curiosities. If you only visit one church in Lecce, make it this one.
Chiesa Santa Chiara
Santa Chiara
This beautiful little church references the Roman Baroque style with its slightly convex façade. A coat of arms above the door is framed by elaborate columns, fruit motifs and cheeky putti. However, my favourite feature of this church can be found inside. What appears to be an intricate wooden ceiling is revealed to have been created from papier maché, a Lecce tradition which flourished in the 18th century. This so-called false ceiling was completed in 1738.
False ceiling, Santa Chiara
Chiesa St Matteo
Chiesa St Matteo
The final church on our itinerary is the exquisite San Matteo, referred to as the Pantheon of the Lecce Baroque. Surveying it from a distance, you'll notice that the lower order is convex while the upper level is concave, a contrast that creates a dynamism and sense of movement. It's no surprise to learn that the architect was inspired by Bernini and Borromini. There are loads of fun facts on the app about the decorative scheme including the so-called 'Devil's Column
Giardini Publici
The public gardens are a hidden treasure, and discovered purely by accident as we peered through the the archway of Palazzo dei Celestini, beside Santa Croce. Leafy and green with an exuberant fountain in the centre, its tee-lined avenues are lined with portrait busts and sculptures. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, here we found mainly locals, reading the newspaper or enjoying an al-fresco lunch.
Fondazione Biscozzi | Rimbaud ETS - Museo d'arte contemporanea
Fondazione Biscozzi | Rimbaud ETS - Museo d'arte contemporanea
Fondazione Biscozzi is home to a small but fascinating private collection of mainly modern and contemporary Italian art. The building is fabulous: a modern gallery encased within a beautiful old building on a pretty square, an effortless blend of old and new.
Opens Tuesday to Sunday from 5pm - 9pm
Fondazione Biscozzi | Rimbaud, Piazzetta Giorgio Baglivi, 4
Castello Carlo V
Though we didn't visit the castle interior, visitors can access its outer ramparts. It's well worth a stroll. However, our main reason for visiting was an exhibition by renowned French photographer Alain Laboile in its recently renovated Bastion gallery. Images on a billboard on the street intrigued us and lured us in.
Laboile's black & white images of family life are affecting, charming and heartwarming. Some are laugh-out-loud funny. The curation, lighting and display is excellent too.
The exhibition runs until 4th November 2024.
Alain Laboile, Il Tempo Sospeso, Castello Carlo V, Via XXV Luglio
APERITIVO TIME
I Galli, Piazza Castromediano Sigismondo
Aperitivo time - my favourite part of the day. Is there anything better than that first sip of a Spritz on a balmy evening, people-watching as the city comes to life in front of your eyes? It's our first evening in Lecce and we've stumbled upon a quiet and pretty square, just off the main thoroughfare. We nab a streetside table at i Galli, a cheap and cheerful little spot on the corner. The evening sun casts a golden glow on the buildings beyond. My attention is distracted by one of the most glamorous women I've ever seen. She must have been in her late 70s but carried herself like a model. She wafted past in a floor-length green dress and wedges, sporting an incredibly elegant Italian bob that bounced as she walked. Her lips were red, her jewellery just that bit extra - exactly the way I like it. She was fabulous - like a character from a Sorrentino film. I'm reminded once more why I love this country.
I Galli, Piazza Castromediano Sigismondo, 9
We were spoiled for choice in Lecce - the city is teeming with fantastic bars, from sophisticated cocktail bars to casual streetside spots. The atmosphere is vibrant and lively but never felt too busy, and we always managed to get a seat somewhere. We favoured the quieter squares like the picturesque Piazzetta Chiesa Greca and Piazza Castromediano Sigismondo, though it's always fun to watch the evening passeggiata in full flow: when locals of all ages take to the streets in their droves for a pre or post-dinner stroll. A table on Via Umberto I will give you a ringside seat, or you can join the masses on Via Vittorio Emanuele II, on the main tourist trail between Piazza Sant’Oronzo and Piazza del Duomo. The latter was the only place that felt touristy, and indeed was the only place I had a poor glass of wine.
Al Baffo
Al Baffo
"Negroni della Casa?", asks the irresistible waiter with the handlebar moustache. He's remembered my order from two nights before... And just like that, Al Baffo became our favourite local bar and place of choice for a nightcap. Or two. Cocktails are excellent and the local beer is light and refreshing. Staff are friendly and welcoming, and there's music every Friday night. An Italian Eddie Vedder is giving it socks on our last night and I'm loving every second. Though maybe that might have been the Negroni della Casa...
Al Baffo, Via Federico D'Aragona, 19
Quanto Basta
You can't come to Lecce without trying a cocktail at the famous Quanto Basta. Luckily for us, it was literally at the bottom of our street. It's very popular - reservations are essential if you want one of the streetside tables. Expect creative and unusual offerings, though they also do the classics. Cocktails will set you back €10
Quanto Basta, Via Marco Basseo, 38
Saloon Keeper 1933
Saloon Keeper
A friend recommended this speakeasy-style cocktail bar on yet another ridiculously pretty square. Inside it's all luscious décor, rich colours and intimate nooks and crannies. Music is jazz. Of course. We opted for a streetside table with a view of the picturesque church - perfect for people-watching as the city came to life on a balmy Friday evening. Cocktails are inventive and beautifully presented.
Saloon Keeper 1933, Piazzetta Chiesa Greca, 16
We also liked the Jolly Roger, with friendly staff, great tunes, and good vibes. They serve one of my favourite beers, Ichnusa non Filtrata.
Jolly Roger, Via Umberto I, 13
LUNCH TIME
Caffè Alvino
What a great little spot. Caffè Alvino is a local institution serving up a vast selection of regional snacks, sandwiches and artisan treats. We nab a seat on the terrace and order our usual: a Rustico Leccese. A typical Salentan street food, this is puff pastry filled with tomato, mozzarella and béchamel sauce. Designed to be eaten on the go, they're utterly delicious and you'll find them everywhere. Just beware of the filling: it can be unexpectedly scalding. They also have an excellent selection of regional wines - my rosato Spumante was deliciously crisp and refreshing and tasted like more. Being lunchtime, I restrained myself. Just this once.
A traditional Caffè Leccese
Can't squeeze in a dessert? Order a Caffè con Ghiaccio instead. Also known as a Caffè Leccese, but of course they don't call it that, this traditional beverage is an espresso served over ice. If they ask if you'd like 'latte di mandorla', say sì. It's the special ingredient - the layer of sweet almond milk at the bottom. Stir it all together for a delightful caffeine hit. Works wonders in 40 degree heat.
Caffè Alvino is a terrific little spot with friendly staff and a warm welcome. Despite its reputation and central location with views of the Roman Amphitheatre, it's ridiculously good value. A Rustico Leccese is a mere €3 while you'll enjoy an excellent glass of wine or bubbles for €5.
Before you leave, peek inside to see the mouthwatering array of pâtisserie and sweet treats. You'll want to try them all. Make sure to try at least one Pasticciotto. These delectable shortcrust pastry treats filled with custard are a specialty of the region but they vary from place to place. It's taken very seriously in Lecce, and they would say their version is best. I concur. Crumbly and delicious, here it's served warm, unlike the version we'd had in Castro.
Caffè Alvino, Piazza Sant'Oronzo, 30
DINNER TIME
3 Rane
3 Rane
Two friends have been regaling us for years with stories about their memorable meal in 3 Rane. About this tiny little spot with just five tables inside and a few more outside. About the charismatic chef who was essentially running a one-man show. About the mind-blowing food and friendly service. We didn't need convincing. We booked immediately.
We were happy to report back that this was the foodie highlight of our time in Lecce - innovative fine dining but without the price-tag. Here we enjoyed excellent service in a casual, relaxed atmosphere, completely lacking in pretension. As it was then, the team is still small - three in total - two in the kitchen and one excellent waiter who kept the entire show on the road with a warm, friendly smile. . At the heart of it all is superstar chef Mauri who trained under Giorgio Locatelli. Indeed there's a nod to his mentor on the book shelves above.
What we had:
Starter: Sea bream tartare with peanuts and peanut butter - a remarkable combination. You'd think it couldn't possibly work but trust me - it really does. M opted for tuna wrapped in a veal roll with thyme.
Mains: A chunky short pappardelle with asparagus, basil pesto and little drops of mashed potato along the side. Divine. Linguine with sausage ragù.
Dessert:
Mamma mia, she exclaimed loudly to the amusement of the waiter after taking a first bite of dessert - a melt-in-your-mouth chocolate mousse with cherries and ricotta. Sublime. M opted for the uniquely delicious take on the traditional Tiramisù
Wine:
Let's talk about the wine list... For a fine-dining establishment, the prices are remarkably good value. An excellent bottle of Negroamaro set us back a mere €30 which was the upper end of the scale. We ordered two additional glasses to enjoy with our dessert. At the end of the evening, the waiter returned with the bottle and gave us two glasses on the house - a nice touch. And in that true spirit of Italian hospitality, chef Mauri popped out to say hello to everyone and ask how their meal was. A little gem. We'll be back.
3 Rane, Via Cavour, 7
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira
This hugely popular and trendy restaurant offers a modern twist on traditional dishes. The food was great with a lively atmosphere and friendly staff.
We had:
Involtini - stuffed with aubergine and cod in a tomato sauce. Mortadella.
Scrigni with a silky burrata inside and prawns - an unusual combination but very good. Orechiettone con Ragù.
Coffee is cutely served in a mocha pot on a tray.
We pushed the boat out and spent €35 on a bottle of Primitivo, as recommended by staff member. It was seriously good but there are bottles available for as little as €23.
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira, Via Ludovico Maremonti, 33
Mamma Elvira Enoteca
This wine bar is the casual sister restaurant to La Cucina above, but instead of a formal seating arrangement, here you can expect high tables and stools overlooking the vibey Via Umberto. The menu is pared back to reasonably priced sharing plates and snacks. We tucked into yet another Burrata, a delicious Parmigiana and some polpette in tomato sauce. They also have a terrific selection of wines by the glass or bottle.
It's just around the corner from the stunning Basilica of Santa Croce. As I mentioned before, Via Umberto I is also one of the main streets to see the evening passeggiata in full flow.
Mamma Elvira Enoteca, Via Umberto I, 19
And that concludes my Lecce Travel Guide. Next stop - Brindisi.
BRINDISI
Lungomare, Brindisi
This is the story of an accidental afternoon in lovely Brindisi. With hours to kill waiting for our flight home at a stupidly late time of night, we decided to spend the day in Brindisi. Almost entirely overlooked by tourists, we were surprised at how lovely it was. It has a gentle, relaxed vibe and the Lungomare (seafront) is a pleasure to stroll.
Via Umberto I runs from train station to the sea & is both picturesque and unusual. Lined with palm trees, it has a Spanish feel and looked intriguingly different to the other places we visited on this trip.
Overlooking the harbour is the striking Monumento ai Caduti - a monument to the fallen of Italy. Commissioned from the Brindisi sculptor Edgardo Simone, it commemorates the approximately five hundred citizens of Brindisi who died on the battlefields of World War I.
Monumento ai caduti, Brindisi
This ancient port city has a rich historical legacy, visible in its striking architecture. Overlooking the seafront at the top of a flight of steps you can't fail to notice the imposing Roman column marking the end of the Appian Way. There are wonderful views across the bay from the top of the hill.
Roman column, Brindisi
We were very taken with the warren of streets that make up the Centro Storico, and astounded by how quiet it was on a Saturday afternoon. The streets around the Piazza Duomo were virtually deserted.
Piazza Duomo, Brindisi
Peace & tranquility is yours at the beautiful Archaeological Museum in Brindisi, with artefacts dating back to Roman times. The inner courtyard is leafy and picture-perfect.
Museo Archeologico Francesco Ribezzo, Piazza Duomo, 6
Archaeological Museum, Brindisi
You can't leave Brindisi without sampling a gelato from Betty's on the waterfront. The pistachio and cherry was divine.
Cafê Betty, Regina Margherita, 6
Our afternoon (and our holiday...) ended with a deliciously sparkling rosato from Numero Primo, a gorgeous wine bar right on the waterfront. With views like this, and with excellent wines from €6 per glass, I could happily have stayed here all evening. Instead, we were forced to say our goodbyes to Puglia, and to make our way to the airport. All good things have to come to an end, I suppose.
Numero Primo, Viale Regina Margherita, 46
We really like the relaxed local vibe in Brindisi and would’ve liked to have spent at least one night here. Next time for sure.
GETTING THERE
Lungomare, Brindisi
We flew direct from Dublin to Brindisi Airport with Aer Lingus. We hired a car from Discover Cars with pick-up from a location on the outskirts of the airport. A shuttle bus was provided.
You can read part II of our Puglia adventures here focusing on the lovely seaside town of Castro, less than an hour from Lecce. Part I here features Monopoli, Ostuni, Polignano a Mare and Locorotondo. The final instalment will showcase our trip to neighbouring Basilicata and two nights in a cave hotel in magical Matera. Stay tuned!
Buon viaggio,
Karyn xx
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