Sassi di Matera at sunset
There is something otherworldly and cinematic about Matera. A town perched on the edge of a limestone ravine, its buildings stacked on top of each other, and slotted into each other like a jigsaw puzzle. An ancient settlement of cave dwellings hewn from volcanic rock in a rugged and unforgiving landscape. A dizzying maze of alleyways, hidden passages, sleepy squares, tunnels and terraces. One of the oldest towns in the world, it's been inhabited since the Stone Age. It's utterly unique and nothing can prepare you for that first glimpse of the Old Town, the Sassi di Matera. It's an extraordinary sight. We turn a corner and there it is, in all its breathtaking glory. I gasp. I've never seen anything quite like it.
Sassi di Matera
It's our first evening and I'm standing on a terrace overlooking the Sassi. The sun has dropped low in the sky, casting a golden glow on the pale stone facades. There are no cars and I'm struck by the peace and quietude. Small birds swoop overhead, diving in and out of crevices in the ancient walls. Church bells ring on the hour as voices travel up from the streets below. My sense of time and place is in disarray - Matera feels like a remnant of a time long ago and I feel the weight of history surround me. I'm a little bit overwhelmed and almost emotional. It's spellbinding.
Sassi di Matera
Today, Matera is a favourite pitstop for visitors to the neighbouring Puglia region. Located just across the border in Basilicata, it has become increasingly popular with tourists in recent years. It's hard to believe but just sixty years ago, this was one of the poorest towns in Italy. Referred to as the 'Shame of Italy' its residents lived tenement-style, with families crammed into its numerous tiny cave dwellings in the Sassi. Conditions were often unsanitary, and poor health was rife. In the 1950s and 60s, the Italian government controversially evacuated most of the dwellings and relocated people to new housing developments on the outskirts, leaving an empty shell of a town behind. However, after an extensive regeneration programme, Matera was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993.
Sassi di Matera
Rock churches, monasteries and caves are camouflaged within this extraordinary landscape. It felt foreign to me, like no Italy I've ever known. I couldn't put my finger on it. And then, while watching a wonderful documentary about Matera at MUSMA (more on that below), an Afghani immigrant describes one of his earliest experiences upon arriving here. His son looks out across the town and says happily "we're home". And I could totally see what he meant - the rugged terrain and pale stone evokes images of central Asia and of the Middle East. Its cinematic qualities have not gone unnoticed by film makers either: it was no surprise to read that Matera was chosen by both Pasolini and Mel Gibson to represent Jerusalem in their respective films The Gospel According to St. Matthew and The Passion of the Christ. And lest we not forget, Bond's No Time to Die was also shot on location here.
CONTENTS:
Where to stay
Why, in a cave hotel, of course. Matera’s accommodation sector has taken full advantage of the town's unique setting, with many incorporating the natural architectural features into their design.
Endea Suites, Sassi di Matera
There are many terrific and affordable options to choose from. We lucked out with the lovely Endea Suite Rooms - right in the heart of the Sassi. Each room has its own private entrance and ours had a little terrace out the front with a table and chairs to enjoy the views, or to catch up on my writing.
Bright, clean and spacious with a huge comfy bed, we were chuffed with our choice, and the novelty of sleeping in a cave did not escape us. The layout followed the natural curve of the walls and though it's been brand-spankingly renovated, the original features are allowed to shine through. Those thick walls provide a natural form of air-conditioning, (though they do of course have a high-tech version too ) while above our head was a beautiful vaulted ceiling. All mod cons were present and correct, and the use of space was clever - a massive walk-in his & hers rain-shower takes pride of place behind the bed. For a full walk-through, you can view my Instagram Stories here
Sassi di Matera
The staff here are one of its greatest assets. Warm and welcoming, they couldn't have been any friendlier or more helpful. They went out of their way to make sure we were comfortable, and had everything we needed to know for our stay, including loads of info on places to eat, drink and visit. Andrea was always on hand on WhatsApp if we needed information.
View from Endea Suites, Sassi di Matera
Breakfast each morning felt like a special occasion, served on the cobbled terrace overlooking the Sassi. This was far from your bog-standard hotel breakfast: here it comes served on a pretty cake stand, layered with sweet treats like delectable orange cakes and pasticciotti. The savoury offerings were equally good and changed each day. I particularly loved the bruschetta with the freshest tomatoes and basil, topped with Mozzarella or Prosciutto. A bowl of fresh fruit, yoghurts and coffee completed the spread, and we were encouraged by the lovely Corine to ask for more of anything we liked. She claimed it was to stop her from scoffing the leftovers later in the day... And we were happy to oblige.
Breakfast at Endea Suites, Sassi di Matera
After a day of intense humidity, a thunderstorm was inevitable. After a morning's explorations, we just made it back to the hotel before the heavens opened. Huge raindrops pelted our studio door and before long, rivers of water poured down its narrow lanes. Sunday plans thwarted, we took advantage of a lazy few hours in our cave room, cracking open a bottle of red and listening to the hypnotic sound of the rain. See the full effect on my Insta Stories here
Two hours later, the sky was blue and the sun was splitting the rocks once more. Like nothing ever happened...
Highlights of a weekend in Matera
Sassi di Matera
Thunderstorms, intense heat and a horrible cold scuppered our plans somewhat. Perhaps holidaying in south Italy in mid-July was not our best decision. Temperatures hit 40 degrees and the air was dense with humidity. Energy levels were low and we didn't get to see half as much as we would've liked on this trip. We needed longer than a weekend in Matera to properly do it justice. It warrants a return trip. Days took on a slower pace with a much reduced itinerary but wandering through its ridiculously picturesque streets is a pleasure in itself. Getting lost is a given - navigating the maze of alleyways and streets is not for amateurs. And Google Maps is almost entirely redundant. If you've ever tried using it in Venice, you'll get the picture...
Also - be prepared for hills. And lots and lots of steps. The payoff, of course, is some of the most extraordinary views. Come with me on a stroll through the two districts of the old town: Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, and the outskirts of the so-called New Town.
Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi
Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi
This beautiful church was our introduction to Matera. Originally dating to the 13th century, the elegant façade we see today showcases the Rococo style and dates to the 18th. The striking public sculpture on the piazza is by Andrea Roggi, one of a number of pieces by the renowned contemporary Italian sculptor. The artwork is part of a temporary exhibition Terra Mater (Earth & Heaven) running across the city.
Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi, Piazza S. Francesco
Basilica of Matera
No visit to Matera is complete without a climb up to the Basilica on Piazza Duomo, one of the highest points in the city. While your calves won't thank you for it, the views from the Belvedere della Cattedrale are pretty awe-inducing, overlooking the entire Sasso Barisano. The basilica has a pared-back Romanesque façade, an intricate 16-point rose window the only nod to decoration. On a balmy Saturday, it glowed under the late evening sun. On the terrace is another fabulous piece by Andrea Roggi.
Basilica Pontificia Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant'Eustachio, Piazza Duomo
Piazza del Sedile
Palazzo del Sedile
Once the economic and political hub of Matera, this vibey square today is full of cafés and bars. It's also the perfect spot to take in the spectacular panorama of the old town districts which rise on either side: view the Sasso Barisano through the arch of St. Anthony on its north side, and the Sasso Caveoso through Via Pennino on the south. The dominating feature is the striking Palazzo del Sedile, the old town hall. Today, the palace houses the Conservatory of Music.
Visit a cave museum at MUSMA
MUSMA, Matera
The highlight of our trip to Matera was a Sunday morning spent at the wonderful MUSMA, the Museum of Contemporary Sculpture. Described as 'the most important Italian museum dedicated to sculpture', its location is completely unique, housed in ancient caves below and in the 16th-century Palazzo Pomarici above. Apparently it's the only cave museum in the world.
MUSMA, Matera
Inside are seven naturally formed caves housing an eclectic array of sculpture. As I progress deeper into the rooms at the back, I feel the temperature drop. In some spaces deep within the caves, lights are activated only upon entry. The element of surprise in revealing the artworks is a good one.
MUSMA, Matera
The collection is utterly fantastic. It features over 400 works of art from the 19th century to present day, by modern and contemporary Italian and international masters. Even tiny little openings in the caves house miniature sculptures so keep your eyes peeled. Three large courtyards link the caves to the Hunting Rooms on the ground floor, with wall paintings dating back to 1600. There are an additional ten rooms in the palace on the upper floor.
MUSMA, Matera
It was here that we watched the most fascinating and thought-provoking documentary on Matera and its citizens, new and old. The older interviewees talked about their early years, living in the caves of the Sassi with their families. They spoke movingly of the sense of community and, while acknowledging the overcrowding and the unsanitary conditions, they reflected on the vitality of life in those days, and the bonds of friends and family. They contrast this with the Matera of today - a city of just 3000 inhabitants. A city whose entire focus is on tourism. Other industry is notably absent. It maybe goes some way to explaining the slight wariness and weariness I felt from the locals. Perhaps there's a yearning for that sense of community in the past, and a rebellion against its ever-increasing gentrification.
*I haven't been able to find a link to the documentary to date but will post here when I do
There are magnificent panoramic views from the terrace at the entrance, and from the upper levels of the museum over the rugged terrain of the Sasso Caveoso.
MUSMA, Via S. Giacomo, 75100 Matera MT, Italy
Where to eat and drink
Osteria al Casale
Osteria al Casale, Via Madonna delle Virtù, 29
An authentic old-world restaurant in the most jawdropping location. Carved into a hillside, it offers panoramic views of the city from its terrace. Pre-booking is essential if you want to eat later in the evening, as is usual in Matera, (after 8:30pm) but they squeezed us in for an early seating without a booking at 7pm.
It's been a long and humid day's travelling and we are starving. I order the Burrata starter. The server asks if we want to share it. I look aghast and say no. We'll both be having a starter. And a main. Each. I may even have sounded a little sassy. And then it arrives - the most enormous Burrata I've ever seen in my life. It's the size of my head. And not only that, it comes in a bowl made entirely from pizza dough on a bed of cherry tomatoes. I sense a knowing smile on the waiter's face but I can't be sure. Martin's is also huge - three fava bean and chicory arancini - a twist on a Puglian specialty - topped with friend onion. Both dishes are incredibly tasty. And we are incredibly stuffed already.
But we soldier on. Next up is orecchiette with local sausage and horseradish cream, and a delectable spaghetti dish with mussels, pumpkin flowers and saffron, accompanied by a full-bodied Aglianico from the Basilicata region. Everything is right with the world. The evening air is balmy and delicious, the views nothing short of extraordinary. The sky is transformed by a glorious palette of pinks and purples as the sun drops low behind the hills.
Our bill comes to €100 for two courses each, plus a bottle of wine and sparkling water. Service was polite and a little brusque but it didn't spoil our mood. By the time a full moon appeared on the horizon, this city had enchanted me completely.
Ristorante da Morgan
I debated whether or not to include this restaurant. While the food was tasty, the service (or at least the initial host's welcome) was less-so. The fact I spoke only in Italian to him didn't make any difference. Despite having booked weeks in advance, and with a number of free tables on the terrace, we were initially shown to an inside table in a practically empty room. When I questioned it, we were begrudgingly moved. Not the best of starts, but the younger servers made up for it. Their Fave e Cicoria starter comes highly recommended - uniquely served in a bowl made of delicious pizza dough. Beware - it's enormous and big enough for two people so order wisely. I did not and followed with a creamy truffle tagliatelle. I practically had to be rolled out of there.
Ristorante da Morgan, Via Buozzi Bruno, 2, 75100, Matera Italy
Aperitivi and after-dinner drinks
Terrazza Cavaliere: rooftop bar - for cocktails with a view. The Negroni was excellent, the views sublime. A well-chosen funk and soul playlist played unobtrusively in the background as swifts dipped in and out of crevices in the walls beyond. You'll probably have to wait for a table but the turnover is pretty quick.
Terrazza Cavaliere, Via Domenico Ridola, 33, 75100 Matera MT, Italy
Area 8: uber-trendy bar with street food and sharing plates
Area 8, Matera
I opted for a twist on my usual - a Negroni del Dottore, toasted and smoky with a hint of coffee. Service is theatrical and elaborate and the cocktail comes with a doctor's prescription. So far, so hipster. It tasted great though.
The vibe is youthful and a little too cool-for-school but I don't think we were their intended clientele. We were probably the oldest people there by about 20 years...
Area 8, Via Casalnuovo, 15
We left Area 8 and headed for Viccolo Ciero, a friendly and relaxed little spot with stunning views of the city above. Two decent glasses of wine cost €12.
Viccolo Ciero, Via Fiorentini, 74
Practicalities: getting there
Palazzo Lanfranchi, Matera
Matera is located in Basilicata, a neighbouring region to the west of Puglia. The nearest airports are in Puglia: Bari is the closest at 54 km away while Brindisi is 112.5 kms. Naples could also be an option but it's almost 200kms away.
Matera is best reached by car as public transport options, particularly from Puglia, are limited. If hiring a car, it's important to note that the Sassi is a Limited Traffic Zone so you'll need to park your car on the outskirts. But never fear, there is plenty of parking, both free on the street (Via Lanera or Via Castello) ) or paid in multistory carparks. The paid options usually include a shuttle to the Sassi. Even though it's only about 500 metres to the Sassi, it's mainly uphill so you may need to reconsider the walking option if you have a few bags.
We visited Matera as part of a 12-day trip around Puglia and Basilicata.
Our trip kicked off with four nights in beautiful Monopoli, halfway down the east coast. From there, we made our way to Matera for two nights before heading further down the east coast to Castro, ending with three nights in Lecce, the so-called Florence of the south.
Link to Slow Living in Puglia part I here. This focuses on Monopoli, its coastline, and day trips to Ostuni, Polignano a Mare and Locorotondo. Part II showcases the lovely seaside town of Castro here, while my love letter to beautiful Lecce can be read here.
We flew direct from Dublin to Brindisi Airport with Aer Lingus. We hired a car from Discover Cars with pick-up from a location on the outskirts of the airport. A shuttle bus was provided.
Buon viaggio,
Karyn xx